ROB’S — both the namesake of its chef, Robby Goco (of Cyma fame), and an acronym for ribs, oysters, and Bourbon — is a love letter to soul food (but especially gumbo).
The cuisine of the American South, particularly in the Louisiana area, is dear to Mr. Goco, as well as to Rob’s co-founder, Raymund Magdaluyo (of Red Crab and Wolfgang’s Philippines). “We wanted to open an honest-to-goodness gumbo place: jambalaya, barbecue,” said Mr. Magdaluyo in an interview during the restaurant’s opening on July 18 in Newport World Resorts.
Guests sat down to a table-groaning meal of seafood, barbecue, and several cocktails during the opening. The meal opened with Rob’s Sashimi (tuna, hamachi, snapper, trout), dressed with an olive oil and citrus dressing, and a crab and shrimp salad with Louise dressing. All good and fine — Mr. Magdaluyo’s other ventures are well-stocked with seafood, and the quality is evident — but these were knocked out of the park by the impressive gumbo.
Seafood and meat meet together in the hearty stew that has become emblematic of Louisiana and Cajun cuisine. Brown and a little bit smoky from the dark roux used to both flavor and color it (in addition to the Creole “holy trinity” of celery, peppers, and onions), it’s thickened with okra or filé powder. Mr. Goco made a masterpiece, with crabmeat, other seafood, and Andouille sausage. Topped with rice, with fresh okra chunks floating on it, it makes itself cozy in the gut while coating the mouth with heat. At P265, one can (and probably should) keep going back to this restaurant, if only for the gumbo.
Mr. Goco said in a speech that at potlucks, he’s invariably asked to bring his gumbo. “It’s always gumbo, gumbo, gumbo. For 25 years, I’ve been cooking this. Anywhere I go — to Ilocos, to Palawan — it’s always gumbo, gumbo, gumbo. Now I have a place where I can serve it on a more regular basis. This is really also about my love for oysters, and really good seafood.”
We were sad to see the gumbo go — so we asked for another plate (seriously, it’s that good). That decision left our tongue and stomach a bit tired for the oysters that came next, one batch with chili and pickle juice, the other with a chipotle-Bourbon sauce. A shrimp, crab, and scallop Pan Roast with rice was hefty and comforting and reminded one of an upscale rainy-day soup (it’s still not the gumbo).
We were jolted awake from our gumbo-induced stupor by the Aww Shucks!, a huge bone laden with bone marrow, served with oysters, and sourdough on the side. Both the bone marrow and the oysters are meant to be spread on the bread, leading to a sinful swallow.
The other stars of the show came next, the Bourbon Baby Back Ribs and the Beef Brisket which was smoked for 16 hours. These came with sides of red beans and rice, kimchi slaw, collard greens, and crab mac and cheese. There was also a smoked chicken inasal (but it wasn’t really our favorite, and both you and I could live without it). The fall-off-the-bone ribs and the yielding and spicy beef brisket are another story, and we suggest ordering out theirs to impress friends at home. “I’ve been cooking for 20-plus years, and this one comes from the heart, really,” said Mr. Goco.
As for the cocktails, we had the Rob’s Hot BBQ Sour (fat-washed bourbon, chili-infused honey, lemon, and Angostura bitters), the Smoked Sagada Sour (Tennessee whiskey, Wolfburn Morven Lightly Peated, Sagada Coffee Syrup, and Cointreau), and the Rob’s Highball (Suntory Kakubin, Passionfruit, Elderflower Liqueur). The technical Hot BBQ Sour is a connoisseur’s friend, and the light Rob’s Highball is on the side of a beginner. We settled on the Smoked Sagada Sour (as the Baby Bear in the fairy tale said, it was just right), and was rewarded with the presentation (they burn a leaf planted on the cocktail, which smelled a bit groovy), while the whole thing had a smoky note that awakened the senses and gave the cocktail some gravitas.
The restaurant is quite small, with only 40 seats. Mr. Magdaluyo, himself having opened a small-scale restaurant in BGC called Saigosan last year, said that this pointed to current restaurant trends. “I prefer smaller cuts with longer operating hours. It makes more sense,” said Mr. Magdaluyo. “I feel that we’re pushing more landlords to operate for longer hours,” he said, pointing out that some malls close by 9 p.m. “The trick to surviving now is, as much as possible, hindi ka lang lunch and dinner (you’re not just limiting yourself to lunch and dinner). As much as possible, all day,” he said. “You become more efficient.”
Rob’s is open on weekdays from 11 a.m. to midnight, Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., and is located on the 2nd floor, Newport Mall, Pasay City. For reservations, contact 0945-726-9984. — Joseph L. Garcia
