Milan Fashion Week: Gucci revisits past to pave new way, sober looks at Tod’s, blooming flowers at Prada

MILAN — Italian luxury label Gucci drew from its past to present an eclectic mix of looks at its womenswear show at Milan Fashion Week on Friday, paving the way for the next chapter as it awaits its new creative director.

The brand’s creative team revisited Gucci’s glamorous and colorful looks of the 1990s, 2000s, and 2010s — nodding to silhouettes and creations by past designers like Tom Ford and Frida Giannini. (See the show here: GUCCI Fall Winter 2023 Women’s Collection Fashion Show PRADA )

Utility suits became long shirt dresses with trains, while large boxy jackets were matched with slim ankle-length trousers in mainly dark shades.

Models wore shirts with stick-out shoulders, knits and jackets with colorful inside collars, and pastel-colored cigarette trousers paired with ribbed tops.

Kitten heels in a range of colors bore cut out floral patterns.

The collection also featured white puffer and dark asymmetrical miniskirts, colorful printed dresses, buttoned capes and a range of duffel coats.

Last month, the Hong Kong-listed fashion group 1913.F said it had appointed a new chief executive, Andrea Guerra, taking the place of Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada and easing a transition to the next generation of the founding family.

FENDI, ALBERTA FERRETTIMilan kicked off its leg of the month-long catwalk calendar with Italian luxury labels Fendi deconstructing masculine tailoring and Alberta Ferretti opting for dark colors at their womenswear fashion shows.

At Fendi, designer Kim Jones added pleated skirt aprons and trains to tailored trouser suits as well as shoulder-baring sleeves to waistcoats. (Watch the show here: Women’s Fall/Winter 2023-24 Fashion Show ( )

There were also boiler suits with skirts, slashed knits with halternecks, draped and ribbed dresses as well as Mac coats adorned with sparkling sequined lining.

In show notes, Jones said he was inspired by the way jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez Fendi wore her family label’s archive items. Mr. Jones works alongside Delettrez’s mother and the founding family’s scion Silvia Venturini Fendi, who looks after menswear and accessories at the Rome-based label.

“It’s deconstructed but luxurious. There’s a little nod to punk and my admiration for DIY, but moved on towards something chic,” Mr. Jones said in the notes.

“The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown and I thought she looked so great. There’s a chicness but perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love.”

Mr. Jones’ color palette mainly stuck to pale blue, greys, cream, brown, and black. He added dabs of bright colors with pink and orange dresses.

Accessories included thigh-high boots, a trend also seen at Alberta Ferretti, who opened her show with a strapless grey gown. (See the show here: Alberta Ferretti Boutique Online Ufficiale )

Further grey looks, often paired with long shiny black gloves, followed — from trousers suits to short dresses.

Models wore long velvet gowns, checked or corduroy suits, belted coats and jackets as well as sheer sparkling dresses.

Ms. Ferretti used mainly dark colors — burgundy, black, and brown with bursts of red on some outfits.

Evening looks were all black: sparkling jackets, sheer dresses as well as matched tops and skirts.

Milan Fashion Week wraps up on Feb. 27. — Reuters

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